Route des vins d’Alsace

To be honest we almost missed this out thinking it was only a few days ago that we did something similar in the champagne region.  We are so glad that we didn’t!  Apparently this is one of France’s most driven routes and we can now see why.  It is pure fairy tale stuff.  The route winds its way through some of the prettiest multi-coloured villages that we have ever seen, each littered with Caves where you can taste the local Grand Cru.  

The hill sides are covered in vines as far as the eye can see and topped with castles waiting to be explored.  The Vosages line the perimeter of the region and add granite to the ground which apparently is what makes the local Pinot Gris taste oh so good!!!!

The route that we took stretches about 60km and ends in the beautiful town of Colmar, with its higgledy-piggledy lanes, half timbered houses and peaceful canals of Petite Venise where you can even hop aboard a gondola for a tour from the water. The highlight of our time in Colmar had to be the evening’s display of traditional Alsation folk dancing in the main square.  We were the first ones to be dragged up to join in - We were parading around the square doing something similar to an Alsation Gay Gordon with people dressed in 16th century costume - unfortunately, since we were both dragged up, there is no photographic evidence!

Happy Birthday to me.....

What better way to spend your birthday than in the beautiful city of Strasbourg in the fabulous region of Alsace and Lorraine. 

If, like me before this trip, thinking of Strasbourg conjours up images of boring grey parliamentary buildings and a stilted atmosphere you could not be further from the truth.  The city is awash with colour and quaintness that give it the perfect chocolate box feel.  It is sometimes hard to believe that you are in a major commercial city.  It has been fought over so much in the past that there is a real mix of culture.  Nowhere is that more prevelant than in the architecture. The half timbered buildings give it a distinctly germanic feel yet the window boxes full of brightly coloured geraniums add a typical frenchness. As you amble along the River Ile at times, you could be somewhere in England.  

It is no doubt this beauty that attracts the hoards of tourists!!!!  (Well there has to be one downfall).  It is the first time on this trip that we have experienced the coach loads walking around in packs and clambering to be first in line for every attraction - it is not something that we will miss when we head off.   

Like many of the other regions the local Alsatian food is a gastronomical delight and no, this does not mean that we have been eating German Shepherds!  It is a great combination of huge german sized portions combined with the french fondness for presentation.  Although ordering can sometimes be pot luck since our understanding of local Alsatian dialect leaves little to be desired.  Sauerkraut garnished with salty bacon, Flammekueche or Tarte Flambee (like a local style pizza without tomato sauce) and Baeckeoffe (a beef, pork, lamp, vegetable and potato stew) are some of our favourites.   

The smell of gingerbread and cinnamon spices as you wander around the cobbles lanes do make you think of 'Noel a Strasbourg' which is rather strange when it is 30 degrees outside.  Perhaps we will have to pop back in December to see the  world's biggest decorates christmas tree! 

Its all about the bubbles....

...or so they say.  Our 2 days in the Champagne region suggest they are right!  From the barmaid in Reims who sat drinking a bottle at 11am (as we drank our morning cafe au lait) to to the sophisticated chic hostess at Moet et Chandon who says its perfectly acceptable with breakfast at 10 am, the bubbles are what this region is all about.  In that case, as the saying goes... if you can't beat them, join them! 


After managing to get ourselves locked in the Moet et Chandon premises (that was a real hardship) we set off on one of the champagne tourist routes.  Essentially this means that you drive (yes, drive) around as many champagne houses (the places where they make the stuff) as you want.  At each place, you knock on the door, ask to see the cellar and try some of their produce and most of the time they say yes!  It really is quite extraordinary.  We had a completely private tour of Henri's cellar along with an explanation of the process involved.  We told him that we would try the same with our grapes back in Woodford - but we got the feeling he did not believe us! 

Despite its name, the champagne route is not all about 'Les Maisons du Champagne'.  The scenery is stunning.  Rolling green hillsides covered in vines broken up by the churchyard spires from the hilltop villages.  

The pace of life is slow (as it would be if you regularly drank champagne with breakfast) and there is an air of clam and peacefulness about the place. We received a truly warm welcome from all of the locals and Henri's champagne went down very well with our home made, BBQ burgers. 

Not a bad Fridge!!!!

The battle of Arras and the Somme

Some may be surprised to learn that this trip is not all about eating drinking and being merry! We have spent the last two days in and around an area of northern France called the Somme.  Most of you will be aware that this is where some of the bloodiest battles in WW1 took place, almost 100 years ago.  Like us you will no doubt have read about these battles in text books (or have been forced to in your history lessons). However being in the place where it all happened really seems to bring it all to life.  It makes you realise the enormity of what still seems to be a mindless loss of life.

We spent a day in a town called Arras where we plunged 20 meters underground to see a world created by the British and commonwealth troops.  It was truly remarkable.  The soldiers discovered long disused limestone quarries which they linked up with tunnels to create a labyrinth of underground barracks.  They had everything from cookhouses to bathrooms, an officers' mess and communications booths.  They even installed electricity! A true feet of engineering. We heard accounts of what went through their minds before all 25,000 of them surged up above ground to ambush the Germans.  It was a truly humbling experience.

 (Mmmm Corned beef!)

Exist No 10 - a few meters from the German camp!

The Somme is now a picture postcard scene, rolling green agricultural land dotted with cyprus trees and the odd farm. It is hard to believe that so many lives were lost in this place.   However there are constant reminders.  The landscape is dotted with perfectly manicured white cross graveyards.  At Theipval stands an enormous memorial to commemorate the 76,000 unknown French and British Soldiers who were killed in the Somme.  Whilst here we bumped in to some current day heros, injured soldiers, 250 of them, who were cycling a tour of the area in aid of Help for Heros.  Amazing!

The circuit of remembrance is actually a beautiful drive - especially when the sun comes out - eventually!  We finished with a visit of the biggest WW1 memorial museum in Peronne which is housed in a huge chateau.  After all that history we took time to reflect with a picnic by the lake eating our incredibly smelly cheese that we bought from the market in Arras that morning - the car still stinks!!!

We are going to be 20 stone when we get home

We didn't know much about Lille before we arrived.   It is probably one of France's least talked about cities and we do not understand why.  It is a beautiful place.  From the fabulous Flemish architecture in the heart of the city to the restored 17th and 18th century buildings in the sprawling Vieux Lille (Old Lille).  There are stylish boutiques which we only got to window shop in this time - or as the french aptly say - "Lecher les vitrines" - literally to lick the windows. Deb was not far from doing that in some shops! There are typical patisseries selling incredibly expensive bread and fresh croissants (which we are now off to for breakfast) and a different type of restaurant on every corner.  We are sure you could eat out for dinner in a different restaurant every night for a year and still have a few left over for lunch!

We opted for an estaminets, a traditional Flemish eatery with plain wooden tables and knick nacs on the walls.  The menus are basic and wholesome.  Half a baked camembert (for the first time) followed by Carbonade - a braised beef stew with flemish beer, spices and brown sugar - it was to die for!!!  Finally, because Mike can't resist, Une Crepe de Grand Marnier which was set on fire at our table.  We now think it is possible to get drunk from eating! That and the 7% Flemish beer (Chouffe) that Mike was drinking.  

Finally, unlike the stereotype, the locals are really friendly.  The lady in the shop asked how we were and wished us a good day and when we looking like a pair of lost tourists in the old town a guy stopped to ask if we needed directions - which we clearly did!

Day 1 - Quintessentially British

Well day one of our adventure begins.  Our last day of all things British.  We started the day with a picnic by the river in Canterbury.  The sun even graced us with its presence for all of five minutes whilst we poured the vintage Dom Perignon that we had been saving since christmas.

We managed to slip in to the side entrance of the Cathedral to avoid the £20 entrance fee!!!

And now off for fish and chips before we get the ferry tomorrow.

Get ready, Get steady.......

Well its almost 6pm on the night before and we are we think we might actually be ready to go (at last)!  The car is packed....

Not too bad at all, even if we do say so ourselves.  Granted Debs could probably fit in her holdall but all the gear still fits in the boot - We knew that estate car was a good idea!


Linda's 'remind us of home' fairy cakes have been eaten (well some of them at least).....

and, as always, they were gorgeous thanks Linda x


And Mike has the route to Lille planned.....

He's not realised that we have a Sat Nav and of course he "doesn't trust those bloody things!"


Off to get in bed early to stop us from setting off now.